There’s a really interesting interview with Le Labo co-founder Edouard Roschi on True To Me Too… clickÂ here
November / 13 / 2013
There’s a really interesting interview with Le Labo co-founder Edouard Roschi on True To Me Too… clickÂ here
November / 07 / 2013
Christmas is near â€“ exclamation mark! This year I will start buying presents extra early. I have a new strategy: I buy whatever I see and love and in the end I decide to whom I will give the selected pieces. The rest is for me. I guess this is a good strategy.
The first thing for my Santa bag is Serge Lutens’ Le Vaporisateur tout noir. A puristic black metal travel atomizer. Until this year there were only refills of FĂ©minitĂ© du Bois and Ambre Sultan available, now you can also buy Fourreau Noir and Iris Silver Mist. I hope there will be refills for all Serge Lutens perfumes as everyone loves another one.
Iris Silver Mist of course is fantastic. Amber and sandalwood soften the extremely earthy iris. After â€“ I call it the ‘carrot stage’ â€“ the scent gets incredibly chic. In some iris perfumes the root just smells like carrots fresh from the garden. Some musk adds this je ne sais quoi, benzoin calms the scent even more down â€“ et voilĂ . Somebody said that Iris Silver Mist smells aristocratic. Absolutely.
â€śA purse weapon â€“ totally black â€“ must be reloaded. And with what, if not perfume, the best way to trigger seduction?â€ť Serge Lutens
Into the Santa bag it goes!
November / 05 / 2013
The history of the English perfume house Atkinsons starts in 1799 when young James Atkinson from rural Cumberland came to London to make his fortune. In his luggage he kept recipes for his perfume creations, a stock of rose scented bear pomade and his companion and mascot â€“ a real brown bear. The bear is a big attraction in London, the pomade goes like hot cake â€“ to cut a long story short, of course James had to be patient, but in 1826 he was designated official perfumer of the royal court. Amongst his admirers were dandy Beau Brummel, NapolĂ©on Bonaparte, admiral Nelson or the Russian tsarina Alexandra.
After a long winter dormancy the traditional perfume house celebrates its relaunch in 2013.Â My favorite scent from this line, The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet, fits perfectly to this year’s mild autumn. The intensive Eau de Toilette mingles through the air like an elegant cigar in the fireplace room of a traditional British gentleman’s club. I smell oriental tobacco with a slightly honey note. Golden tea in a delicate porcelain cup, newspapers rustle. You get whiskey, sweet almondy heliotrope, soft labdanum and to add some depth and opulence a pinch of pepper and bits of ginger. The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet is warm like an open fire, spicy like Christmas cookies an all in all just awesome! To those who love Ambre NarguilĂ© by HermĂ¨s I highly recommend The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet. And I want to mention that perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin also created the wonderful Volutes for Diptyque last year, I wrote about it here. And now spritz some The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet on a cashmere scarf and go for a stroll through the autumn leaves.
The recomposition of the velvety rose-meets-patchouli scent Fashion Decree by Karine Dubreuil, that has already made the heads turn at the court of Queen Victoria, is an autumn staple too. Opulent and nevertheless light-footed it combines the sweetness of roses and Chinese magnolia with earthy patchouli.
These perfumes fit for gentlemen and gentlewomen, of course.
Last but not least I want to rave of the vials, because the heavy silver lids with the Atkinsons emblem are gorgeous and look so very luxurious and elegant. Maybe they are the most beautiful flacons I have ever had my hands on for the last years. They make a perfect still life on your dressing table. By the way, the emblem is adorned by two bears. Who would have thought? And bears are always very welcome in Berlin!
Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin
Notes: tobacco, heliotrope, ginger, pepper, benzoe, labdanum
Oktober / 10 / 2013
As you all know: I love ChloĂ© by ChloĂ©Â in the Eau de Parfum version, love the vial with the soft pink ribbon. This fragrance is so clear cut and at the same time distinctive â€“ and that’s the point, it has a recognition factor. My friend Frida recently sniffed various perfumes which she found on my vanity. Grabbing ChloĂ©Â she said, â€ťthat’s how you always smellâ€ś. So this perfume reminds her of me the most although I change my perfumes very, very often, testing me through the world of new perfumes.
I could not wait for ChloĂ©’s new release Roses de ChloĂ©.Â After testing it extensively I decided to be faithful to my old love. Let me explain. Roses de ChloĂ© smells just too old fashioned rose-scented to me. The two perfumes do have similarities â€“ a clean but nevertheless sensual smell with emphasis on green notes, roses and cotton â€“ but Roses de ChloĂ© focuses stronger on the Damascus rose. By the way it reminds me of the recently launched La fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens â€“ without the oriental base and less modern. Roses de ChloĂ© definitely could have been a niche perfume. I mean this as a compliment. This perfume smells anything but mainstream.
Give it a try. I am not sure whether it is compatible with the average ChloĂ© perfume client. As I already own La fille de Berlin and many, many other rose perfumesÂ I keep wearing and loving my ChloĂ©.
Perfumers: Michel Almairac & MylĂ¨ne Alran
Notes: bergamot, magnolia, Damascus rose, white musk, amber
September / 25 / 2013
This is what I loved to smell this summer!
By the way, did I mention that we had Club Tropicana in Berlin? Gosh, it was so, so hot. But since two weeks it feels like autumn and I am suddenly feeling like buying autumn fashion flipping through the pages of glossy magazines. Every season has its beautiful sides.
For the gals…
L’Artisan Parfumeur: MĂ»re et Musc
I have found this perfume on fashion blogger Garance DorĂ©’s site. She mentioned it to be THE perfume of the French girls. Of course I ordered a sample the same day and I must say that I completely fell in love with this clean musk fragrance that is so unbelievably sexy at the same time. It smells like blackberry yoghurt and musk mixed with Ă” de LancĂ´me, which is one of my summer staples. And to be honest, who doesn’t want to smell like a French girl?
The Different Company: Pure eVe
Once it was called Pure Virgin, they have changed the name, Pure eVe is one of the most lovely musk scents I have ever smelled â€“ you find me in the summer of musk, maybe a baby powder thing from a new mom. CĂ©line Ellena has combined the smell of the famous French sweets Calissons with aldehydes, linen flower, mimosa, rose, cedar wood and, of course, musk. Clean and sensual, absolutely divine!
Montale: Sweet Oriental Dream
One gourmand for summer is a must. I have chosen Sweet Oriental Dream because it is overwhelmingly sweet, soft and sexy and the staying power is incredible. Reminds me â€“ and a lot of others â€“ of Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum Eau PoudrĂ©e but this one is less powdery and the almond is more on center of the stage followed by a wonderful rose and creamy vanilla. A must try!
EstĂ©e Lauder: Bronze Goddess
After checking other vacation scents like the new Coccobello by Heeley or Beach Walk by Maison Martin Margiela I’ve finally bought a bottle of this year’s Bronze Goddess Eau FraĂ®che although I dislike the design of the bottle. Too much gold for me who distastes bling bling. Bronze Goddess is very creamy with a dominant vetiver note. Not at all ‘king of coconut style’, this one stays close to the skin and nevertheless you smell it on your clothes for hours. It has something chilly, like the flair of the late-season, when it’s getting a little bit colder in the evening. Somebody compared it to AzurĂ©e Soleil by Tom Ford for EstĂ©e Lauder (2007). From what I remember AzurĂ©e Soleil had smelled somehow very synthetic, which Bronze Goddess Eau FraĂ®che doesn’t. It’s a smooth operator.
La Perla: Just Precious
Some time ago we were talking about the 1990s perfume fashion. When I received the new La Perla perfume it reminded me in a way of this era. A sweet oriental scent with citrus notes, tiarĂ© flower, vanilla, amber and sandalwood, perfect for a hot summer night. I have gotten a lot of compliments and have to admit that it really feels very sensual.
My all time favorites quickly added: Oranges and Lemons say the bells of St. Clements by Heeley, Louanges Profanes by Parfumerie GĂ©nĂ©rale, Escale Ă Portofino by Dior, which is gorgeous, the bottle included! Not to forget Eau Dynamisante by Clarins and Ă” de LancĂ´me by LancĂ´me.
By the way: I tell you my secret for the face during hot summer days: I use the Aloe Vera Toner Sensitive by Santaverde â€“ best thing to wake up and to refresh yourself during the day. The atomizer makes an ultra-fine spray mist and the smell is heavenly! It’s not water-based but made of aloe vera juice and rose water. Also best directly from the fridge. I love this stuff and have just replenished my reserves. Forget thermal water with fuel gas!
And, last but not least I’ve found a new bronzer which I’m going to use throughout the year: Soleil Tan de Chanel. A cream bronzer which smells like apricots and which gives you a golden summer glow every time you need a little bit of color. Amazing!
So far from the Olfactorialist beauty cabinet concerning fragrant products.
For the boys…
J.F. Schwarzlose: Treffpunkt 8 Uhr
A great scent made in Berlin. Treffpunkt 8 Uhr (Meeting place 8 o’clock) combines vetiver, ginger, sage and mango. The mango just rounds up this beautiful perfume, don’t expect anything like a mango lassi note. The ginger reveals a sophisticated crispness. You have to try this, it’s stunning! A great mixture of classic and up to date.
Figs, coconut, cedar wood. This perfume simply smells like vacation in a bottle and is the best for hot summer days and nights.WearingÂ Philosykos always feels like coming directly from the beach. A gem! Did you see the wonderful travel spray holders with the magnetized cap of the Collection Voyage by Diptyque? Slim, black and so chic!
Armani PrivĂ©: Eau de Jade
Something green! Recently I tested the whole Armani PrivĂ© line and sprayed Eau de Jade on my wrist. It lasted very long and I sniffed my arm the whole way home and again and again. I really love this wonderful scent with bergamot, neroli, musk and pepper. The price tag is the only reason why this beautiful perfume doesn’t sit on my dressing table yet.
Miller Harris: Fleurs de Sel
Vetiver is the womanizer par excellence. I don’t know any woman who doesn’t love vetiver on a man. Fleurs de Sel is salty vetiver, a dense and intense carpet made of thyme, rosemary, clary sage, vetiver grass, moss and leather. Amazingly woody and herbal.
Bullion was created for the Arabian market but in Berlin they sell it at Galeries Lafayette, so fortunately I went by and tested this wonderful sultry elixir. It is a very deep and opulent scent for the evening. Black plum, leather, dark woods, musks. A rich and absolutely sensual perfume. Gorgeous and after Bal d’Afrique my favorite Byredo scent.
What did you wear during the summer heat?