I got my first X-mas present: Gucci sent me a bottle of Gucci Première with my name engraved on the stopper. I like! And by the way… great idea for an individual present. I never thought about engraving perfume bottles. Maybe I would prefer my initials, but… I don’t want to complain.

Gucci Première is a very elegant perfume, for me a little bit too flowery for an autumn/winter launch. The sensual base could be more intense but don’t try this scent on paper. Try it on your skin and give it a little bit more time to develop. The base smells very sophisticated.

Category: women

Year: 2012

Creative Direction: Frida Giannini

Notes: bergamot, orange blossom, white flowers, leather, wood

Do you want to smell like a sophisticated hippie? I want to! Maybe we should also buy one of these big brim hats, that you will see everywhere this summer. They fit perfectly to the new Heeley perfume Hippie Rose. Great name by the way, it deconstructs the old school idea of rose perfumes. Hippie Rose is a cool dude, a flower child, rock’n'roll.

I met James Heeley in Düsseldorf at the Global Art of Perfumery and I am happy to be one of the first ones who is allowed to smell his new perfume. Last year he told me, that it is difficult to create a rose perfume that doesn’t smell just like rose water, soap or too old school. Now he will launch the wonderful Hippie Rose, which was inspired by India, the hippie movement, Jim Morrison and the beautiful actress Daria Halprin from the 70ies movie Zabriskie Point by Antonioni. The movie takes place in the beautiful sundrenched landscape of the Death Valley and there is a lot of dusk, a beautiful, suntanned girl with long, long hair and huge light blue eyes in a short olive dress – and a beautiful boy of course.

In Heeley’s words Hippie Rose is “The rising sun of a new, carefree day. A warm wind filtering through the Californian desert. The perfumed air of a Himalayan temple. Waves of long, shining hair flicker over dust and sand and soft, tanned skin. Freedom is not far. Against the rose coloured sky of dusk, we dream of love and peace and better days…”

Hippie Rose has nothing in common with heavy patchouli hippie scents. Tart green moss and bergamot in the opening reveal a fresh, masculine twist and on the other side the perfume feels transparent like the light blue eyes of Daria. The balance of rose and patchouli is wonderful. Of course there is patchouli, but it is built on the idea of freedom, peace and love, it’s just the idea of the hippie era. Heeley managed to make it light and uplifting. The green notes dominate and the sugary elements of rose are contrasted by warm patchouli. To say that it is sweet would be an offense. No, it is mild and flowery with a touch of incense but not overpowering. Did you expect something else from James Heeley who would never annoy anyone with a perfume? I just wanted to mention this. Welcome to the summer of love!

Hippie Rose will not tempt you to smoke weed, but be sure to wear some flowers in your hair. Peace to James Heeley for creating such an amazing rose scent!

One of my favorite songs by The Doors…click here

Category: unisex, but James said – and I agree – that it is more feminine

Perfumer: James Heeley

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, green moss, Bulgarian rose, patchouli, incense, Haitian vetiver, amber, musk

www.jamesheeley.com

Gaïac 10, Le Labo’s Tokyo city exclusive perfume, will exceptionally be available in their NY, L.A., London, and internet stores until May 15, 2011. All profits will be donated to the Japanese Red Cross Society to support their earthquake disaster efforts.

Gaïac is a very hard greenish wood that isn’t as dry as cedar and that is subtle, profound, and stable. Le Labo’s Gaïac 10, a perfume extract that has been developed in partnership with perfumer Annick Ménardo, is a tense formula built on gaïac wood and surrounded by muscs (4 different types in all), with hints of cedar and olibanum (incense).

50ml cost 260 US $

Category: unisex

Perfumer: Annick Ménardo

Year: 2008

Notes: gaïac wood, cedar wood, olibanum, musk

www.lelabofragrances.com

Geisha Noire is a very intoxicating, mysterious, dark and powdery amber scent with a vintage oriental touch. Somebody said that it smells like a vintage Shalimar. I don’t own a vintage Shalimar so I can’t tell you. But Geisha Noire is less animalic than the latest version of Shalimar. That’s for sure.

The note of burnt rubber in the opening is absolutely divine. I tested the perfume oil and the scent stays close to the skin, nothing is overpowering. Geisha Noire settles down to a deep, warm, amber base underlined with spices, vanilla and incense. Nothing for daytime, it makes me think of the quirky movie Secretary with James Spader and Maggie Gyllenhaal in the gloomy atmosphere of Mr. Grey’s law office. Everything is about looks, gestures and obsession. And that’s what Geisha Noire feels like. If you want to confuse your colleagues…wear it in the office. But don’t blame it on me.

Category: unisex

Year: 2000

Perfumer: Maria McElroy

Notes: black amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, incense

www.aromam.com

Maybe this is the most amusing new release in 2010. I love les Carottes is part of the Honoré des Prés “New York Collection“ by Olivia Giacobetti and smells like a delicious carrot puree – no joke – well seasoned with a fresh and healthy touch.

The scent starts with a note of fresh squeezed carrot juice, turns into spicy carrot puree and finally ends with an earthy, slightly powdery vanilla carrot base. I mean it is very interesting and beyond doubt a challenge to make a perfume based on carrots. Olivia Giacobetti cooked, froze and cooked again carrots from organic farmers from Harlem to experience all facets of this vegetable. Usually I adore her perfumes but with all respect to her work I am sorry, I do not love I love les Carottes.

One hour after putting it on the scent disappeared almost completely, like all the other scents by Honoré des Prés I have tested. What remains is a waft of carrot, but only if I sniff my arm – and I have a very sensitive nose. Disappointing. I found this comment at fragrantica: “maybe hard to wear everyday if you are not a rabbit”.

Category: unisex

Perfumer: Olivia Giacobetti

Year: 2010

Notes: orange, carrot, vanilla, orris butter

www.honoredespres.com