I love roses and can’t pass a rose without smelling it, especially after it rains or early in the morning. But I have my problems with rose perfumes; there are only few I really love like Lipstick Rose by Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, which is very special.
As it seems rose is the new trend after Oudh, jasmine and tuberose and I’d like to present you the latest releases. Une rose vermeille by Andy Tauer has already made its way into my Top 10 for autumn, that’s why I skip it.
These days my whole apartment is smelling of roses, blotter strips everywhere, not to mention my skin. You can call me Rose now.
Olivier Durbano: Pink Quartz
Pink Quartz is Olivier Durbano’s sixth perfume, like its predecessors it’s inspired by a semi-precious stone – rose quartz. Rose quartz is the birthstone for Taurus, so this is my rose!
Pink Quartz is a spicy, sparkling chypre with a slightly powdery aspect and a subtle sweetness that is contrasted with the Somali olibanum accord that all perfumes of Olivier Durbano have in common. Pink Quartz feels like drinking champagne and eating rose loukhoum close to a night market in Morocco. The saffron note is amazing and now I have to go directly to this little oriental store around the corner which is selling rose loukhoum. Don’t get me wrong, Pink Quartz is not overly sweet, the rose feels like being sprinkled with a little bit of powdered sugar. Just amazing and wonderfully balanced. You smell rose, citrus notes, spices, woody notes and a touch of skin. Delicious! By the way the staying power is excellent.
Perfumer: Olivier Durbano
Notes: bergamot, pink grapefruit, Somali olibanum, saffron, ginger, Palma rosa, Damascus rose, Indian rosewood, Indian absolute rose, grey amber, patchouli, myrrh, benzoin, white musk
Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle: Portrait of a Lady
Portrait of a Lady is not inspired by Henry James‘ novel of the same name written in 1881. But this scent reveals the feeling of 19th century novels. Although created as a ‚modern rose‘ it fits perfectly to the dramatic scenery of the Victorian era. Have you seen the movie with Nicole Kidman and John Malkovich? I love Viggo Mortensen as Caspar Goodwood. Why on earth does she always run away from this beautiful man?
Frédéric Malle and Dominique Ropion wanted to use an accord of Geranium pour Monsieur as the heart for this modern oriental. They changed the proportions of this accord and created Portrait of a Lady, which has a really dark, obscure side with spicy elements and incense.
The opening is a fruity flash of rose and berries – ripe blackcurrants and raspberries. The scent gets a darker feel when the spices come into play. The second step is a rosy-woody accord. Very dry, very substantial. In the base you get an earthy feeling with rays of the Geranium pour Monsieur accord, but more as a variation on a theme. The really dry, sandalwood base with an animalistic touch has an unbelievable lasting power; I can smell it even the next morning. Is there Oudh? It’s not listed, but I could swear that there is Oudh! Portrait of a Lady is old-fashioned and modern at the same time and should be amazing on a man, too.
Perfumer: Dominique Ropion
Notes: rose essence, blackcurrant, raspberry, cinnamon, clove, rose absolute, patchouli heart, sandalwood, frankincense, Ambroxan, white musk cocktail
Simone Cosac Profumi: Trama
A soft and fruity oriental with a light woody base. Trama reminds me very much of Perles de Lalique by Lalique, but it is quieter with a soft peach note and less patchouli; not overly rose. Very sensual, very feminine, very elegant. I really like the woody drydown and the quiet patchouli note. I would even prefer it to Perles de Lalique, which I wore two winters ago.
Perfumer: Sonia Constant
Notes: rose wood, pink pepper, black pepper, lychee, Damask Rose, tuberose, jasmine, peach, cedar wood, patchouli, amber, benzoin, peru balm
Photo: Katrin Belgardt