I don’t know what happened to Monsieur Lutens but I feel that something has changed. I’ve first noticed it with Bas de Soie. The perfumes are getting more floral, transparent, less oriental, less spicy. They feel more and more French, loosing its Moroccan or let’s say oriental background.
Vitriol d’oeillet (Vitriol of Carnation) is very clean and light. A scent around carnation seasoned with different kinds of pepper, nutmeg and clove, but the spices are reduced to a minimum. They reveal a licorice effect which turns into a slightly powdery, minimalistic musky base. Is there some violet in it? Seems so. When I first heard about it, I thought it would turn out rather oriental, but it is very French in a way, elegant, comparable to Bas de Soie, but less sharp and less intense. A very clear and kind of simple scent, which I can imagine for the early morning. It feels like a quiet garden when the sun has not yet fully risen, neither are the flowers in full bloom. I associate a sophisticated French businesswoman on her way to the next meeting. Very B.C.B.G. (bon chic bon genre), a French term meaning good style, good attitude.
To be honest, it is not the kind of perfume I would wear. I feel too young and too passionate for this scent. After half an hour it has nearly disappeared and you can only feel an idea of a perfume on your skin.
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: carnation, clove, cayenne, black pepper, pink pepper, nutmeg