Maybe I am the last one to write about N°19 Poudré. Why? Everybody has been waiting impatiently for the new Chanel flanker, that was launched on the birthday of Coco Chanel, on August 19. And then, disappointment. Me too. I locked N°19 Poudré in my perfume shrine and didn’t think about it any more.
Then I found it again and what do I say, well, Méchant Loup Thierry of Olfactorum nailed it down calling it Infusion N°19. That was my first thought too: “Reminds me of Infusion d’Iris by Prada.“ But the development is different and in this competition, Prada wins.
I am a huge fan of the house of Chanel, but this flanker is dull. When I first tried it, my boyfriend asked me what kind of grandma perfume I was wearing. Unfortunately he is right, N°19 Poudré has nothing modern or progressive, that a perfume needs on today’s huge perfume market.
There are two famous perfumers behind this creation, Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake. Sheldrake created Bas de Soie for Serge Lutens in 2010, a very sharp and unusual take on iris with hyacinth. So we are talking of a very prominent and experienced team and nevertheless: take two blotters, spray on the one Infusion d’Iris, on the other N°19 Poudré. Spritz one of the scents on your left pulse, the other one on your right pulse. Wait. Some hours later Infusion d’Iris is still brilliant, powerful and simply gorgeous, a crystal clear, cool iris with a vintage twist but nevertheless modern and feminine in an absolutely gorgeous puristic flacon. N°19 Poudré has made the French leave and you just smell a trail of a musky iris, slightly soapy and that’s all. Like a lipstick kiss of your aunt on your cheek. You can feel this powdery touch but it feels odd.
By the way, there is nothing better than the original N°19, that was far ahead of its time!
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake & Jacques Polge
Notes: neroli, tangerine, jasmine, iris, musk, vetiver, tonka bean